Saturday, July 15, 2023

Polignano a Mare

The sun kisses your skin as a soft breeze leads you down the whitewashed stony steps to the ocean. As you pass the piazza your nose stops you to smell the heavenly scent of something fried and doughy... so you go inside to grab a bite of the pillowy-soft freshly made pocket of mozzarella and tomato Panzerotto. Naturally you begin to hum to the tune “Volare"... welcome to Polignano a Mare.

We had an incredible time in the now emerging gem of a location on the east-coast of Italy, in the region of Bari. The beauty, the cuisine, the people, the ocean... a spectacular place longing to be discovered again and again. We can't wait to go back!

Accommodations

Torres Suite: We stayed at this amazing family-owned Airbnb, just a few steps away from the Domenico Modugno monument piazza. They have many rooms located on different streets, but all very close to the main walkway with shops, restaurants, and the famous pebble beach between the cliffs and cove. Their hospitality was unmatched and they went far above and beyond to make sure we had all that we needed to have a great time. Our room even had a "secret" little chamber that went up the steps to a terrace with the beautiful view of the town and ocean! I would definitely go back and I highly recommend staying here!

Attractions

Monumento Domenico Modugno: Polignano a Mare is the hometown of Domenico Modugno, otherwise most famous for the song Volare. Years after he passed away they dedicated this monument to him. *Fun Tip: You need to throw your hands up and belt out the lyrics to Volare as you smile for your photo in front of this monument.

Terrazza Vista Mare: As you walk through the little streets, you'll find many areas that are picture-perfect. This terrace is the perfect spot that overlooks the Lama Monichile pebble beach.

Lama Monichile: Perhaps one of the most famous photographs of Polignano a Mare always includes this shot of the pebble beach. It is absolutely beautiful and scenic, the water is a gorgeous turquoise. *Tip: It gets very crowded, therefore aim to get there super early in the morning to get a spot on the beach. Keep in mind it is all pebbles and rocks, so bring water shoes with you to be comfortable as you walk and swim.

Grotta Piana: A cove you can walk through located on the Lama Monochile beach, where you can also jump into the water once you reach the end of it. 

Centro Storico: This is the historic center of Polignano a Mare. Beautiful whitewashed streets, a section of poetry romancing the stone walls... a dreamy old world charm.

Via Roma: Located in the Centro Storico, this street has the famous lyrics of Volare on display as you walk underneath them. They are beautifully lit up at night. There many souvenir shops and caffè bars you can stop in as you stroll along your way.

Dorino Giro in Barca: (Boat Tour): We had such a great time aboard this boat tour seeing the beautiful caves of Polignano a Mare. Our tour guide provided fun facts about the town, a few laughs, and a great music playlist! During our tour we had the option of jumping off the boat and going in for a quick swim and then coming back to enjoy some sparkling Prosecco. We had such a great time... definitely worth doing during your time here!

Matera: We went for a day excursion to Matera and it took about an one hour of travel time with car from Polignano a Mare. The ancient neighborhoods, known as sassi is completely built out of limestone. It is one of the oldest inhabited settlements in history. Truly a wonder to see.

Alberobello: We went to Alberobello the same day right after Matera, which took another hour to reach by car (if you go directly from Polignano a Mare it is about a thirty minute drive). This cute little town is known for its Trulli the small round buildings with cone roofs made out of stone. You can spend your time strolling the maze of streets, shop for souvenirs, and enjoy the unique views in Alberobello.

Food & Dining

Antica Tratoria Comes Del 1926: We dined here the first night and it was impeccable. From the traditional, homemade dishes all prepared by Giuseppe's mamma (the owner), to the outstanding hospitality and service of Giuseppe himself... it truly is a hidden gem. Be sure to reserve in advance, he does not take walk-ins because he is so dedicated to his guests who are dining in that evening. Our dinner was so fresh and authentic, all made out of love and dedication... we felt like family and cannot wait to go back!  

Grotta Palazzese: This exclusive restaurant/hotel place is absolutely stunning. Located in a natural cave overlooking the sea, it is definitely a beautiful place to celebrate a special occasion. I will be honest, it is very expensive. The prefixed packages are a 3-course meal with dessert and are displayed online, where you can also make a reservation. We were pleasantly surprised by the meal, but the real treat is the gorgeous location.

La Rotellina: No visit is complete without tasting a hot, fluffy, soft, doughy and oh so good Panzerotto. It is basically dough stuffed with their many fillings, closed up and then fried. My personal favorite was Il Classico Pomodoro e Mozzarella and for dessert, Nutella, Mascarpone, e Granella di Nocciole.

Bella Blu Gelateria: This gelato shop was so incredibly good. I may or may not have had multiple gelati during my stay... their creamy mango is delightful.

Taralli: Round olive oil bread sticks that are made with many unique flavors. They originate from this region of Puglia and are often served alongside bread for dinner. 

Caffè Speciale: A unique coffee served in Polignano a Mare with sugar, lemon zest, cream, and amaretto... say no more.


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